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  • Velcro

    I don't know if this counts as a professional tip or a very unprofessional one, but here goes.

    I hate pinning/basting velcro in place when making roman blinds and find it moves too much if I don't. While making a roman blind for myself (in a hurry) I stapled the soft velcro on using very fine staples. I stitched as normal and removed staples with I'd finished, before slip stitching to finish off.

  • #2
    I use 6mm double sided sticky tape... Fold and crease the top of your blind to the required length - Stick a length of 6mm double sided tape 1/2 a cm from the top, peel back and lay the velcro on to it.. Press down and sew..

    Very simple, I buy my 6mm tape off ebay.

    Have you registered your business yet?

    A MyDecozo Directory


    • #3
      Jules, thanks for the velcro tip - works brilliantly. Jane


      • #4
        Well Hi again folks, I used this method for the first time this week & am well impressed


        • #5
          Hi all I use self - adhesve hook and loop tape and just clean my needle off after sewing. Will never ever go back to using non self adhesive again!
          Kindest Regards,


          • #6
            Jules - Do you sew the loop tape to the back or your blind after you have made it ????...............


            • #7
              Yes, I'll hold my hands up to that. It's just I hate unpicking. As my grand pappy used to say 'if you don't want trouble, don't ask for it', so I tend to be a bit belt and braces.

              I have used the iron on loop velcro but it's a bit pricey. I think I'll have a go with your double-sided tape, Philip.


              • #8
                Thats a shame, I have just come back from the shop with guess what. Non sew velcro! Still, I'll know for next time


                • #9
                  1. Complete the front of the blind mitering the corners and folding and pinning the bottom hem and the side turnings

                  2. Make the lining complete with rod pockets. leave the bottom of the blind long for now.

                  3. Mark a line along the top of the lining representing the top of the blind and replicate the same line on the back of the lining.

                  4. sew the hook tape (30mm) 2mm below the line you have drawn along the top of the face of the lining.

                  5. Place the lining and the main fabric face to face and pin the top edge.

                  6. Sew along the line on the back of the lining 2mm above the hook tape. The two parts of your roman blind are now connected at the top with a stitch line.

                  7. Before you turn the two sides over and back to back you will need to trin the top hem. Cut away all but about 4 or 5 mm of face fabric and leave about 3cm (30mm) of lining material.

                  8. Now turn the lining over the face fabric and you will have a perfect line along the top of the blind and the velcro stitched on the lining at the back. Press the seam flat.

                  9. Lay the blind out on your bench face down and fold back the lining to reveal the top now unfolded hem.

                  10. If you are interlining the blind now is the time to insert your interlining and repin the edges. Cut your interlining neatly at the top so that it touches the cut edge of the face fabric along the top hem. If you are not interling you will still need to insert a piece of interling about 4 inches deep along the top edge. This is to debond the buckram used in the next stage from the inside of the face fabric. If you don't have interling use a piece of lining material cut in a strip and tuck neatly in under the side turnings.

                  11. Cut a piece of 4 inch double sided fusible buckram and insert it into the top of the blind between the interlining (or false interlining) making sure that it goes right up to the hem stitching. Fold down the lining and pin the top of the blind out tightly to the bench.

                  12. Iron the buckram into place. This will fuse the head of the blind behind the velcro such that there is now a stiff almost pelmet like feel to the back of the blind but the front fabric will not be affected by this stiffness. A tip here is to place a strip of kitchen roll over the hook tape and it will not collapse or melt onto the bottom of your hot iron.

                  13. You can now fold down the lining properly and complete your blind in the normal fashion. (whatever your normal fashion is of course)

                  14. When the blind is hung onto the hook tape on the batten it will always sit in a clean line at the top without a hint of distortion or sagging. Nor will there be a stitch visible on the face of the blind.


                  • #10
                    Hi Barcoded,

                    Don't worry, just staple or double sided sticky tape it in place before sewing!


                    • #11
                      That is very interesting - Pictures for the gallery would be nice, maybe even a youtube video - Any chance of a consolidated version for the roman blind section?

                      I only use one line of machined stitching across the top - Hate to see two rows and a wrinckled blind.

                      Have you registered your business yet?


                      A MyDecozo Directory


                      • #12
                        I love your essays. I DON'T sew my velcro so that you can see it on the from of the blind. I allow enough length so that I can sew the velcro on and then fold it over and slip stitch into place on the reverse.

                        But... I do like your idea and will give it a go when I get time as am behind with too much emailing and not enough electricity.

                        I stil feel I need a weight bar at the bottom.


                        • #13
                          Philip I wrote the booklet in MS Publisher but I don't think I included a section on inserting the buckram at that time, it was about 4 years ago. Do you want me to send you the book in Publisher form then you can see what needs to be done. I was selling on ebay for £3.50 and sold a couple of hundred copies all with good feedback but lost interest and never bothered again.


                          • #14
                            Surely if Jules wants to use a weight bar, that is her choice. There are lots of ways of doing things, not necessarily a right way or a wrong way...its the choice of that particular curtain maker.



                            • #15
                              I too have always hated the line of stitching along the top of the roman - and make mine as just described EXCEPT I have never used the buckram. I have never found a problem with the way I do mine, but I do like the sound of using the buckram, and see the principle behind it. I think I will be using it the next scheduled roman.

                              I remember once using adheisive velcro to keep it steady as I sewed, but found the needle kept jamming. I assumed the needle was blunt but it kept happening. Further investigation showed that the glue was attaching itself to the needle as it pierced the velcro and it was the build up of this that caused problems. It was probably an inferior 'velcro' but nevertheless I never used it again for this purpose.