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Help on Shaped Valance Proportions

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  • Help on Shaped Valance Proportions

    Morning All,

    I have been asked to make a valance like this one:


    As you can see I have added some lines at the bottom of the valance which is more the shape I am looking for (couldn't find a good pic to show you)!

    Does anyone have any advise on proportions the drop at the outer edges needs to be 56cm and the drop in the middle needs to be 32cm however I don't know how wide to made the outer edge before I start bringing the shape up into the middle! Hope this makes sense.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Schuhby; 10 May 2011, 20:57.
    Kindest Regards,
    Karen

  • #2
    Re: Help on Shaped Valance Proportions

    You haven't said how long the valance should be, but a good proportion is that the long bit should be as wide as the stackback.
    Regards
    Pen
    Kind regards
    Pen Harrison
    Colly Brook Fine Furnishings

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Help on Shaped Valance Proportions

      When we met up at Penny's a few months ago, Enid gave a general guide that the shaping should start 1/2 fabric width in from the outside edge, and that there should be at least approx. 5" between the longest and shortest part of the valance.
      Louise


      sigpic Simply Sewing

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      • #4
        Re: Help on Shaped Valance Proportions

        Thanks for your replies.

        One valance is 281 cm wide the other is 155cm wide. Haven't got the stack back measurement but will get hold of it because that makes sense to make it that wide.
        Kindest Regards,
        Karen

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Help on Shaped Valance Proportions

          Hello Karen

          If you draw the required shape that you would like the valance to achieve on a length of paper - Make a pattern as you would for an arched window. Cutting the paper pattern in to strips, this is shown in the M&D book. Only make a pattern 50% of the pelmet size including returns, fold the fabric in half to create the full width. Make two and keep the second one intact, you then pleat the curtain to this shape once finished.

          More info here

          Hope that helps..

          Philip
          Have you registered your business yet?

          http://www.ukcurtainmakers.co.uk


          A MyDecozo Directory

          Comment


          • #6
            hello. i did a template of the valance when up on the window that replicated the one above. ie the drawn lines underneath. it looked identical, and the customer said she does want the corners . thats where the curve starts. she said she didnt want it to look sharp. my question is this when it is sewn and pleated up into a hand plated goblet valance does it gently curve. i have put 82cm for the extra shape and then done continous curve. or do i need to take the sharpness off the corner.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Karen, I prefer the type of shape you are making. This is the shape I generally make if a client leaves the decision to me. I would just point out that it is a steeper rise so you need to be sure that your lining will not show on the reverse (a bit like a swag, if you see what I mean). I had to re-make one once because the lining was showing where the rise was steep. If you have a frill or attached a fringe then this will not be an issue. Don't forget that the returns are part of the deepest section of the valance. Do you have 'The Practical Encyclopedia of Soft Furnishings by Dorothy Wood Page 109 has a simple diagram setting out how to plan the shape? Let me know if you would like me to scan it for you. (I'll have a go anyway!).
              Sue.
              Sue.

              Comment


              • #8
                because if wanted 33 cm worth of uncurved area, it times this by 2.5 which was about 82.5 cm. so hopefully when pleated i will have this amount ie 33cm approx. do i then add on the return to this amount. with thanks.

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